Affordable Burgundy and Friends
Some division among the tasters last week...
April 20, 2022
The 2020 Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d Auxerre was the most controversial. On first opening, it was tight and lean but overtime rounded, exhibiting a Chablis-like muted green apple over mineral affect that delighted most tasters. One found it too lean for his palate.
The Manciat Macon Charnay and the Aligoté opened to more fruit and roundness. Each had its fans. The Aligote's Burgundy's Other Grape, savory herb-inflected fruit, fascinated some tasters.
At first, the 2018 Garaudet Bourgogne Rouge exploded out of the glass, opening with heady and rich classically burgundian fruit that people loved. After three hours open, the fruit faded and revealed its tannic structure. This would mean that its satisfying richness is for the near term, but it would not age very well.
The Chateau des Jacques Moulin a Vent was the opposite. It was muted to but over the time of the tasting opened up to a nice rich and layered wine that late tasters really liked.
The Aviron Fleurie was less assertive than the others. Some found its precision and more delicate balance very attractive. It will nicely partner lighter foods, even some fish dishes.
White
2020 Jean Manciat Macon Charnay Franclieu; Color: very pale clean; Aroma: very firm, mineral, light flint dense, restrained; Mouth: thick, clean, very pure, light, clean firm, perfect balance; Very Good Plus 19.99, case 16.99
2020 Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d Auxerre; Color: rather sweet intense; Aroma: rather firm, mineral, rather firm, heady, juicy dry; Mouth: bright fleshy sweet forward, rather firm, juicy, restrained, firm, very nicely balanced; Very Good Plus 26.99; Mixed Case, 24.29; Case, 22.99
2019 Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Aligote; Aroma: savory heady, rich spice, an earthy undertone; Mouth: thick, dense, heady bright acid spice, over a savory heady, earthy undertone; Very Good Plus 28.99; Case, 24.99
Red
2019 Stephane Aviron Fleurie Dom de la Madriere; Color: dark hue light concentration; Aroma: heady rich, dense delicately etched but full and plump; Mouth: ripe on entry full fat, juicy a fine clean acid, plump on the middle, nice long finish; Very Good Plus 23.99; Case, 19.99
2019 Chateau des Jacques Moulin a Vent; Color: transparent purple-black; Aroma: very sexy rich fruit, very dense, fine & pretty, firm & deep, very rich; Mouth: clean, fresh, light elegant, fine minerality, nice balance, strong racy fruit, persimmon & plum, very long, firm fine tannins on the finish; Very Good Plus 27.99; Case 23.99
2018 Garaudet Bourgogne Rouge; Color: very dark, almost black; Aroma: sweet pinot, very heady sweet pinot with a light wood edge, very rich exotic plum; Mouth: griotte wild plum cherry plum, smooth structure, fine acid very long, rich finishes dry; Very Good - Excellent 36; Case, 29.99
Mix any 12 bottles of the above at their case discount prices
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- Len Rothenberg
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