This Week's Tasting
Affordable Burgundies
April 20, 2022
Affordable Burgundy is not an oxymoron if you know where to look...
 | Federal WineLine TONIGHT 4:30 – 6:30 Affordable Burgundy |
Affordable Burgundy is not an oxymoron iof you know where to look. hence this week's six wines
White
2020 is an excellent vintage for white burgundy. The good ones show a rare combination of ripeness and acidity. One of the best we have tasted so far is grower Jean Manciat's single-vineyard Macon-Charnay Franclieu. It has everything you want in a classic macon; intensity, balance, and vivacity, cool green apple flavors over an excellent mineral base.
Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot’s Bourgogne is in a very different vein. The Côtes d'Auxerre, Chabls' neighbor, is coming into its own as a region of burgundy, and they are among its leading cop of younger growers. Their 2020 has a coiled energy paired with a mineral undertone. Bring on the oysters
Aligote is burgundy's other white grape. It so seldom ripened in the good old/bad old days before global warming that Felix Kir invented a cocktail named after him, using crème de cassis to sweeten its acidity. His immortality is likely temporary because now growers get the grape ripe, enabling Aligote to show its savory quality. Today's Olivier Leflaive rendering is a perfect example,
Red
If you like burgundy's delicate poise between fruit acid mineral and acidity but quail at a price, there is no better place to look than Beaujolais just to the south. Historically a part of the dukedom of burgundy, its winemaking has become increasingly more like its big brother to the north. Excellent winemakers are making 'burgundy' in the Gamay grape's deeper, darker, more forward hues.
This week will taste two both classics in different modes.
Beaujolais native Stephane Aviron in partnership with ace winemaker Nicolas Potel to make Cru Beaujolais. We'll taste Fleurie from a single estate, very precise, delicate, and much in the image of a Volnay, where Nicolas grew up.
Moulin a vent is a Beaujolais in a richer, more robust style. Jadot's Ch des Jacques is among the most savory in a drinkable modern style.
Paul Garaudet's Bourgogne Rouge comes from Premier Cru sites in the Côte de Beaune. They are neither fined nor filtered. This is in a very good place right now, showing earthy, spicy, dark cherry and berry fruits embedded in a structured core.
White
2020 Jean Manciat Macon Charnay Franclieu; Color: very pale clean; Aroma: very firm, mineral, light flint dense, restrained; Mouth: thick, clean, very pure, light, clean firm, perfect balance; Very Good Plus 19.99, case 16.99
2020 Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d Auxerre; Color: rather sweet intense; Aroma: rather firm, mineral, rather firm, heady, juicy dry; Mouth: bright fleshy sweet forward, rather firm, juicy, restrained, firm, very nicely balanced; Very Good Plus 26.99; Mixed Case, 24.29; Case, 22.99
2019 Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Aligote; Aroma: savory heady, rich spice, an earthy undertone; Mouth: thick, dense, heady bright acid spice, over a savory heady, earthy undertone; Very Good Plus 28.99; Case, 24.99
Red
2019 Stephane Aviron Fleurie Dom de la Madriere; Color: dark hue light concentration; Aroma: heady rich, dense delicately etched but full and plump; Mouth: ripe on entry full fat, juicy a fine clean acid, plump on the middle, nice long finish; Very Good Plus 23.99; Case, 19.99
2019 Chateau des Jacques Moulin a Vent; Color: transparent purple-black; Aroma: very sexy rich fruit, very dense, fine & pretty, firm & deep, very rich; Mouth: clean, fresh, light elegant, fine minerality, nice balance, strong racy fruit, persimmon & plum, very long, firm fine tannins on the finish; Very Good Plus 27.99; Case 23.99
2018 Garaudet Bourgogne Rouge; Color: very dark, almost black; Aroma: sweet pinot, very heady sweet pinot with a light wood edge, very rich exotic plum; Mouth: griotte wild plum cherry plum, smooth structure, fine acid very long, rich finishes dry; Very Good - Excellent 36; Case, 29.99
Mix any 12 bottles of the above at their case discount prices
Take 10% off the individual bottle price for 6-11 bottles mixed
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- Len Rothenberg
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