Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Read about the wines in this tasting

This Week's Tasting

White Burgundy and a Friend - Three Grapes, Classic Proportions and Complexity
October 29, 2025

Demand has pushed white burgundy prices ever higher. This week, some of our favorites are moderately priced white burgundies, but one caveat is that supplies are limited.

 

Wine Tasters 

This Week

Wednesday, October 29, 2025

White Burgundy and a Friend

In-store, 5 - 6:30pm

 


 

Demand has pushed white burgundy prices ever higher. This week, some of our favorites are moderately priced white burgundies, but one caveat is that supplies are limited.

We've included a small quantity of one wine that was so good when it showed at our tasting a month or two ago that we got in some more, but only three cases.

 

White Burgundies

 

2022 Dubreuil-Fontaine Bourgogne Blanc les Crenilles;

Florence Dubreuil-Fontaine is known chiefly for her Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses wines. She does have a single limestone-rich vineyard in Pommard just across from the Chateau from which come the grapes for this very pure and clean Cote d’Or white

Aroma: lightly pretty, fresh mineral, clean, relatively firm, light green apple and lime; Mouth: very pretty fruit. Lightly appley clean acidity, fine minerality on the finish, long; Very Good Plus $33; Case, $27.99

 

2023 Joel Curveux Pouilly-Fuisse

Like the premier crus from this value-for-money producer, this village Pouilly Fuisse over-delivers for its price. It is broad and rich, full of airy fruit, and very satisfying for a moderate price for such a good wine

 Aroma: reserved, pretty & fresh, pear and apple, wet stone, just a touch of buttery oak; Mouth: clean, fresh, pretty fine acid line, excellent structure, with air opens to pear and apple; Very Good - Plus $29.99; Case, $25.49

 

2033 Florence Cholet Bourgogne Côte-d’Or

Florence Cholet is a brilliant young winemaker based in Puligny whose wines are astonishingly good and very reasonably priced. Her estate, Bourgogne, like her Pulignys, is classic in its expression of the triad of famous towns. Please let it breathe for a while before drinking now. It will age nicely for another year or three.

Creamy and finely delineated, with good depth and richness and just enough acidity, it shows the breed of a fine Côte d’Or white. Very Good- Excellent. $47, Case $38

 

2022 Domaine Vocoret Chablis Les Forets 1er Cru;

The Vocoret Family’s domaine goes back over 150 years in Chablis. This is one of their better 1er crus. It is a gamine, lighter on its feet than several other wines of its warm vintage, but does not stint in its expression of Chablis classic chalk.

Aroma: very bright and forward with bright and intense forward, clear and lifted, very prettily defined mineral; Mouth: light and lithe foreword, excellent leading acidity,  gives a fine edge,  bright and forward, lifted higher toned, leading to a long light finish; Very Good - Excellent Was $65, now $50; Case, $42 two cases only

 

2022 Bruno Clavelier Bourgogne Aligote Dore

Aligote is Burgundy’s other grape, long thought to be secondary. This one is something special. It comes from an 85-year-old single-vineyard in the Côte de Nuits and is made by one of Burgundy’s finer practitioners, Bruno Clavelier. Patty, savory, and rich on the nose, it is sumptuous in the mouth, with rich flavors and very well-integrated oak. Drink now or over the next couple of years. Excellent $41, case $35

 

Something Else

 

2020 Ziereisen Gutedel Viviser

An exceptional showing deserves an encore

We offered this wine a few months ago, but sold out of our limited supply. It is extraordinary for its price.

Gutedel is called Chasselas in France and Fendant in Switzerland, where it makes its finest whites, the favorites of Zurich bankers and Davos conventioneers.

Viviser is Ziereisen’s reserve level Gutedel. Like us, Stephen Reinhardt of the Wine Advocate has been a fan for years. He wrote:

“Another excellent Chasselas from the Ziereisen family. It was basket-pressed and aged in large oak casks on the lees for about 20 months. The nose is deep, intense, pure, spicy/stony, and even reminiscent of fresh green olive oil, but also iodine notes of crushed limestones. Round, intense, and elegant on the palate, this is a saline, fresh, seriously structured, and persistent Chasselas with vibrant mineral grip and tension and a refreshingly pure finish that still doesn't offer anything for hedonists. Just 11% alcohol.”

To translate Reinhardt’s last phrase, Viviser is lean, not fat and opulent, but direct, a fine companion for food, à la Chablis. It wants some air to open, and it will continue to improve after a few years. Excellent 29.99, case 25.99

 

Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com

 

Please pass this on to any friends who are wine or scotch enthusiasts!

 

           - Len Rothenberg

 

 

 

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