The Wines of This Week's Tasting:
Three Fine Estates' Champagnes
November 4, 2025
Three Fine Estate's Champagnes
Girard-Bonnet in the Côte des Blancs
A Mi-Chemin Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut
Paul Girard’s Girard-Bonnet is a new estate; twelve hectares of vineyard split almost evenly between the grand crus Oger and les Mesnil He is certified organic and biodynamic.
During élevage, the wines are kept on the full lees, protecting them from oxidation. Paul tastes the retastes barrels constantly to see whether they need sulfur which he uses only if necessary. Unlike most producers, his initial fermentation is long and slow. He does not bottle until August.
Mi Chemin (Mid-Path) is no middle-of-the road champagne. It poses Oger ‘s plush, floral fruit against Mesnil’s saline structure. making for a wine fascinating in its layering and complexity.
Aroma: broad, full fruity, intense and salient very ripe note; Mouth: Rounded bright acid, clean, lightly herbal, very ripe and fruity, fine; Excellent $90, Mix-six $79
A Margaine, Montagne de Reims
Mathilde Margaine is the 5th generation, and first woman, to oversee this tiny estate in the village of Villers-Marmery, an island of Chardonnay in the mostly Pinot Montagne de Reims, Margaine also has a small parcel of Pinot Noir in Verzy. The estate is practicing organic
A Margaine Cuvée Le Brut 1er Cru
86% Chardonnay, 14% Pinot Noir with a third 2021, two thirds reserve wine (2012, 2019-2020) Fermented and aged in stainless steel and aged 24 months on the lees
Aroma: Rounded heady, fruity, full, steely note; Mouth: Clean fine intense. Bright acid, cushioned by an earth-inflected fruit, long on the palate; Very Good – Excellent $65, Mix 6 $69
2016 A. Margaine Special Club
The vintage Blanc de Blancs [the “Special Club” bottling] from this grower is refined, incisive, and vinous, built on understated lemon fruit, and acquiring tantalizing walnut-butter notes with time.-Andrew Jefford, The New France
Five and a half years on the lees
“A total delight. Ample yet light on its feet, the 2016 is exquisite. Partial vinification and aging in oak rounds out the contours beautifully, something that becomes more apparent as this wine starts to open in the glass. Lemon confit, marzipan, chamomile and dried flowers build effortlessly. The persistent, mineral-driven finish is exquisite. “ Vinous $125, Mix 6 $110
Famille Mousse, Marne Valley
Pinot Meunier is the Marne’s most planted grape.
“Cédric Mousse turns out some of the Marne Valley’s most refined, charming Meunier wines from the south-facing slopes of Cuisles on the north bank of the Marne river." Decanter
Cuisles has unique terroir in Champagne, green clay under sand which makes its Meunier based wines almost Chardonnay-like, with a lift and texture not often seen with this variety.
Under Cédric Moussé’s leadership has made everything at the domaine is done with an eye towards maximum sustainability. Harvesting is, labor-intensive to protects the grapes from being crushed prematurely and only stainless steel is used in the cellar. Through his elite-level farming and winemaking, he has gained a reputation as one of the finest growers in the entire region.
Eugene Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut
80% Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir,70% 2022, 30% perpetual blend 2003-2021
“It unveils an expressive bouquet of candied orange peel, pear, peach, plum and pastry. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, rich and multidimensional, with a concentrated core of fruit, succulent yet racy acidity and phenolics that lend a gently bitter edge to the long, resonant finish. While the residual sugar lends it a touch more giving style …comes highly recommended." Wine Advocate $79, Mix 6 $69
Mousse Eugene Rose
“Disgorged in July 2024 without dosage—is based on a perpetual reserve, blending vintages from 2003 to 2022, and enhanced by 12% Pinot Meunier [fermented red] aged in barrel. The bouquet is perfumed and inviting, with notes of raspberry, rose petals and red apple. The palate is full-bodied and textural, revealing a delicate fruit core, succulent yet racy acidity and a floral finish. The blend is composed of 82% Pinot Meunier and 18% Pinot Noir.” Wine Advocate $87, Mix six, $76
Mix any six or more at their case prices
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