The Wines of This Week's Tasting:
Different Faces of Syrah
February 12, 2025
Red
2023 Pierre-Jean Villa Gamine Syrah
A young flirt
Villa is one of the three younger, forward-looking Rhone producers in this tasting. It's as teasingly flirtatious as its name implies. A beautifully linear pure wine that you could mistake for Pinot Noir from a single vineyard near St. Joseph
Aroma: very intense pure fine acid, clean, good drive; Mouth finely direct, clean, vibrant acid core under very pure ripe raspberry fruit, Pinotish Very Good Plus $37; Case, $31.45
2023 Pilon Syrah Syrah d’Autre Rive
Pilon's style is more robust but has the same purity of fruit. These grapes come from the 'other bank' of the Rhone near Cornas and, under its pure fruit, have the hint of warmer spice and structure of that appellation.
Aroma: relatively dense, fullish; Mouth: Clean, bright, tight acid full, fine tannins, firm, well structured; Very Good Plus $26.99; Case, $22.99
2023 Vincent Paris Selection Syrah
Set In Stone
Vincent Paris has been getting quite a following for his layered and complex renditions of the grape in the northern Rhone. As with most of his wines, this needs a little time to warm up in the glass, with its greater complexity and bigger, bolder aspect.
Color: medium dark Aroma: medium dark, purplish, fresh light, light black pepper, reserved; Mouth: clean fruity, reserved a touch clipped, at first but opens to a compote of fruit and structured; Very Good Plus $21; Case, $17.85
2017 Terre Rouge Syrah Cotes de la Ouest
Une Personne d’un Certain Age
We have followed Bill Easton's California's Sierra foothills wines for 20 years. They are not as showy but show a richer, more composed Syrah style. Sedate and mellowed, this shows the composure of age, with a subtlety that wants attention to appreciate.
Color: very dark; Aroma: intense saturated closed to start, a spicy line, intense; Mouth, soft and mellowed, plummy dark, very smooth, subtle and reticent at first, opens to a smooth fine acid, Very Good Plus $28.99; Case, $24.75 limited
2022 Owen Roe Ex Umbris
Sweet fruit spice out of the shadows
In Washington's Columbia Valley, winemaker David O'Reilly makes a fruit-forward, spicy, and rounded version of Sierra, lively and exuberant. We like it because of its easy-going, friendly fruit and assertive spice.
Color: very dark purple Aroma: heavy, fresh, soft & earthy, relatively dense full; Mouth: fresh chewy, chocolate, fine, sinewy taut, rich fine earth and tannin; Very Good Plus $26.99; Case, $22.94
2023 Domaine de Pieblanc Bourdon Cotes du Rhone
Big and Brawny- Great Value
This vintage of our most popular Syrah (although it isn't on the label) is bold and young at present. Still, in the next few months or a year, it will show the spice and richness that have made it a terrific bargain at a very low price.
Color: very dark; Aroma: heady, very dense, spicy and firm, savory; Mouth: very rich, smooth, intense, bright, rounded, clean, long; Very Good Plus $18.99; Case, $15.99
The Faces of Syrah Case, two each of the wines above $269
And a bonus.
2021 Les Bruyers (David Reynaud) Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Georges
Serious Rhone Syrah the way they usta
A big, brash, and bold Syrah made in the traditional northern Rhone style. It is very well structured and has lots of spice and intensity. We will open it well in advance, but it is a wine that wants cellaring or decanting while ah
Color: medium red black; Aroma: heady with deep fruit, light smoke overtones, subdued; Mouth: clean, light, fresh, bright, very restrained, lovely balance; Very Good - Excellent $39; Case, $33
Mix any twelve or more wines at their case prices
Len Rothenberg
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