The Wines of This Week's Tasting:
Creamy Savory White Rhone Grapes
March 11, 2026
2023 Stephane Ogier Cotes du Rhone le Temps est Venu
This wine names what has long been true: Stephane Ogier’s time has certainly come. He is recognized as among the best of the northern Rhone’s wine makers working in a more modern style, for his Cote Rotie, a wonderful all-Roussanne St. Joseph, and an impeccable Condrieu. This basic grenache blanc blend is at a great price for its quality.
Aroma: light fresh intense; Mouth: clean rounded fleshy, good acidity, full, mouth filling but, but vibrant acidity, a swirl of herbs and fruit nice richness, good length; Very Good Plus $19.99; Case, $16.99
2022 Domaine Piaugier Sablet Blanc
A similar blend, but with more Marsanne and Roussanne, fleshy and full,
Aroma: fleshy and full with an appley malic acidity, floral with air a dusty barrel note; Mouth: Fullish dry unctuous texture with good material lightly accented by green herb & rich barrel notes; Very Good Plus $24.99; Case, $21
2022 Michael Shaps Viognier Virginia
One of the better New World renditions of this grape that we have come across. It has
Aroma: ripe and forward, intense, savory, a mineral note, pretty, fine acidity; Mouth: balanced and rather rich, intense nicely concentrated, fine acidity very firm, balanced and long; Very Good - Excellent $32; Case, $27
2022 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng Honah Lee Vineyard Monticello
One of the best, most balanced of the piquant grape that we’ve encountered. The transition from the Pyrenees to Virginia has been done well.
Aroma: heady and deep acerbic, petit pumpkin pie; Mouth: flashy lower acid, pumpkin again with a touch of clove, long finish, rather intense; Very Good -Excellent $32; Case, $27
2024 Truchard Roussanne
Roussanne is a finicky grape, difficult to vinify properly. Too ripe, it is flat and flabby, unripe, it’s lean and acid. Vintage after vintage, the Truchard family has found its golden mean on their vineyard in southern Napa’s Carneros. They bring out the grape’s elusive, dimensioned, floral stone fruit, over crisp acidity at a more reasonable price. than most
Aroma: fresh rather closed, pretty fine, fresh and firm; Mouth: lush spicy rounded, fleshy sweet herb, bright acid balanced, fleshy long; Very Good Plus $28.99; Case, $24.99
2021 Upside Down White Wine Marsanne Roussanne Konowac Vineyard;
From Washington State, a savory and heady blend of mostly Marsanne with an enlivening touch of Roussanne
Aroma: heady and herbal, soft herbal spice with tropical restrained fruit; Mouth: juicy, tropical rather forward, intense, good weight, and mouth-filling, with good acidity, a bit of alcohol on the finish; Very Good - Excellent $40; Case, $34
White Rhone Grapes Case two bottles of each $356, $299
Not in the tasting, but available in small quantities and mixable with the above
2023 Pierre-Jean Villa Viognier Primavera
Younger vines Viognier in a fresher style from a modern master Very Good Plus $36, case $31
2023 Domaine Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Réservée
Wine Spectator “A distinctive version, with melon, aloe and mirabelle plum notes showing a flash of green herbs and verbena. Mineral-driven and herbaceous, with floral notes adding nice freshness and fresh acidity coursing from beginning to end, while the savory landing is marked by gunflint. Silky in feel, with chamomile and smoke on the long, mouthwatering finish. Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Bourboulenc. Drink now through 2028.” $89, case $76
Mix any twelve of the above at their case prices.
Two special whites arriving next week:
2023 Domaine du Tunnel Saint-Péray Roussanne Organic
St Peray is the smallest, southernmost appellation of the northern Rhone; its white and sparkling wines are little known here. After working with Jean-Louis Grippat, Stephane Robert has run his small estate for thirty years to quiet praise. This dry white is exceptional.
Wine Advocate“- a real success. Its complex, enticing bouquet of white flowers, exotic fruits and spices is intriguingly enhanced by a delicate reduction that imparts a Riesling-like nuance. Medium to full-bodied, round and enrobing, it's dense and concentrated with a fleshy core of fruit, an elegant phenolic mid-palate and gastronomic bitterness leading to a long, fresh and perfumed finish. This is a very distinctive Saint-Péray and an impressive effort.” $49, case $42
2023 Georges Vernay. Condrieu les Terrasses de l’Empire
Viognier finds its epitome on the steep slopes of Condrieu. There, for 25 years, Christine Vernay has made some of its best exemplars. For example This asingle vineyrd>
Jancis Robinson “Intoxicating aromas and flavours of lemon blossom, jasmine, honeysuckle, ripe peach and apricot juice. There's some oiliness but it's held in balance by fairly refreshing acidity. This is very poised for Condrieu, and it may last longer than I have estimated. Drink 2025 to 2030 $89, case $76
Len Rothenberg
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- Len Rothenberg
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