This Week's Tasting
Summer-Cool, Cooler Climate Spanish Wines
July 23, 2025
They come from higher-altitude vineyards, most near Spain’s northern coast, and have become favorites among those who want fresher flavors and lighter textures.
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This Week Wednesday, July 23, 2025 Cooler Climate Spanish Wines In-store, 5 - 6:30pm
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Summer-Cool, Cooler Climate Spanish Wines
Cool - at low temperature
Cool – Suave, with-it, au courant, fashionable
This week’s Spanish wines are both.
They come from higher-altitude vineyards, most near Spain’s northern coast, and have become favorites among those who want fresher flavors and lighter textures. They are moderate in alcohol. Although the names may not be familiar, the flavors are delightful and perfect for this season.
White
Just call it Tchak
2024 Txomin Etxaniz Getariako Txakoli
This classic Basque white is fresh, clean, and slightly effervescent, making it very quaffable and refreshing for any occasion. In San Sebastian, a center of Sian’s culinary universe, you’ll find this wine enjoyed everywhere from the modest tapas bar to Michelin star restaurants.
Aroma: Green apple, citrus blossom, Thai basil, fresh mint, green tea, and a hint of briny sea breeze. Mouth: A mineral & tactile texture, refreshing acidity, stone fruit, fresh grated lime zest, crushed seashells, long and mouth-watering finish. Very Good Plus $21.99, Case $18.99
Good depth for swordfish
2020 Virgen Galir Godello Valdeorras
From rocky soils in the mountains of northwestern Galicia. Miguel Tienda and Jorge Navascues make their Godello-based wine in a classic traditional style.
Straw, green highlights. Briny grapefruit and smoky minerality. Pear, almond, citrus blossom, and note of beeswax. Bright, full-bodied, focused, and complex. Good grip, well-framed acidity, and a long, balanced finish. Excellent 26.99, Case 22.99
Volcanoes with some of the highest vineyards in Europe
2022 Piedra Fluida Islas Canarias Tenerife Blanco
The volcanic wines of the Canary Islands have garnered considerable attention lately. The exceptional Piedra Fluida from Tenerife there is a thrilling example that shows why. The estate works with ancient, ungrafted vineyards among the highest-altitude vineyards in Europe. They farm these old vines organically, which benefits vine health while also reducing soil erosion and water loss, both essential on these dry, challenging volcanic soils.
Aroma: This is a very complex and savory white wine. The smokiness of volcanic terroir is evident on the nose, alongside notes of fennel seed, white pepper, bread dough, and lemon zest. Mouth: Crisp and focused with lots of citrus fruits and an intense sensation of salinity. Powerful and unique but eminently drinkable at the same time. Very Good Plus $25.99, Case $21.99
2022 Quinta d Muradella Monterrrei Candea Blanco
José Luis Mateo’s passion is finding the best wine he can make in his estate in Monterrei, just north of the Portuguese border in Galicia. This wine is a blend of three local grapes: Dona Blanca, Verdello, and Treixadura. It is fermented and aged with lees in stainless steel for one year.
Wine Advocate “shows character, cleanliness, precision and freshness beyond the price point, and it transcends appellation and vintage … It has only 12.5% alcohol and an expressive nose of herbs and flowers, and it is balanced, harmonious and elegant and finishes dry and long with a tasty and salty twist. A bargain. “
Color: light green gold; Aroma: fresh, clean lifted, heady; Mouth: rich and full, intense fat in texture, clean, subdued greengage plum, fine acid rather long, ; Very Good -Excellent $27.99; Case, $23.99
Red
Poised and Pretty
2022 Guimaro Ribeira Sacra Tinto
In the cooler heights of the hills of northwest Galicia, the Mencia grape, when well grown, can have a pinot noir-like purity and grace. This one is full-fruited and round. We loved its extraordinary purity.
Color: medium red black; Aroma: very fresh, very pretty, herbal, firm, nutty, piercingly herbal, firm; Mouth: fresh, very clean, fullish, fat, juicy, very intense, very pure rich; Very Good Plus $24.99; Case, $21.50
A Whole New Idea of Grenache
2020 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas
Now and then, you come across a wine that makes you rethink your idea of a grape. This old-vine Garnacha does just that.
Daniel Landi and Fernando Garci work in viticulture in the mountainous Sierra de Gredos, a rugged and remote area west of Madrid. Their Garnacha is Grand Cru quality. It will seduce your palate with prettiness, persistence, and perfume.
Aroma: Ridiculously fragrant, fresh orange zest, redolent of rose petal and black cherry juice, with a hint of brighter strawberry candy. Mouth: It oozes complex and tantalizing flavors of black fruit, red flower petals, cracked black pepper, and wet earth. With a backbone of acidity and fine tannin, this bottle has made the Comando G wines so sought after. A fresh Garnacha with notable character. Excellent $35; Case, $29.99. Just bottles available
Cool Spanish Case $326, Sale $275, $22.92, the bottle
Or mix any twelve or more at their case prices
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com
Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!
- Len Rothenberg
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downtown on orders more than $75;
in Greater Boston on orders more than $199
