Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

2018 Royal Tokay Furmint The Oddity

Dry White Distinctive and Strong, Not Strange
August 10, 2021

 

grapes

If you liked or missed out on the sold-out Ziereisen Viviser, try this dry white. 

The Furmint grape is almost unknown outside its native Hungary, although it does make a cameo appearance in France's esteemed Ch Simone Blanc. In its native land, it is the backbone for the famous sweet Tokaj wines that delighted many a royal court as far back as the 17th century.

Under communism, Tokaj and Furmint fell into decline. With its fall in 1989, Hungary's vineyards' legacy and unrealized potential attracted much attention, including that of famed wine writer High Johnson (The World Atlas of Wineand many others.) With a group of investors, he resurrected the historic Royal Tokaji winery. In addition, they acquired a unique combination of top vineyards, including Mézes Mály, one of only two Tokaj great first growths, and some ancient vineyards once owned by Prince Rakoczi. His wine was loved by Louis the 14th. Four centuries later, these vineyards continue to be highly valued under Hugh and his staff's care.

While famous for its dessert wines, Furmint has always been the base for a robust dry white. I love the wine but wish that Royal Tokay had not named their version The Oddity; It is different and distinctive, not in the least strange. It has a nutty acidity not unlike that of a Muscadet but with the breadth and power of a traditional Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux. It wants shellfish; shellfish want it. If you like broad, strong dry wines, you will love this one, especially at its price

 

2018 Royal Tokay Dry Furmint The Oddity; Aroma: heady herbal, slightly nutty, bright and firm, lightly pretty with pungent stone fruit; Mouth: pretty rounded clean & firm, herbal, fleshy and ripe with pear - crab apple notes, pleasantly bitter finish; Very Good Plus 17.99; Mixed Case, 15.99;

Special Case 179.88 (14.99)

 

Arrives Thursday

 

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           - Len Rothenberg


 

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