Off the Beaten Path in Spain
Three whites and three reds did intrigue and delight our tasters.
April 3, 2024
White
Historic Cava producer crafts a stunning elegant white that delights the senses
2022 Familia Gramona Gessami Blanco
A fresh, vibrant blend of Native Muscats (Frontignan and d’Alexandria), Sauvignon Blanc, and Gewurztraminer. A longtime favorite of Spanish white wine drinkers and a surprise for those who discover this bottle
Aroma: Great aromatic intensity, a walk in springtime. It evokes cool, fresh air, white flowers, jasmine, orange blossom, and rose. Additionally, fruit notes of peach, citrus, anise, and chamomile tea. Mouth: Fantastic acidity that gives a great freshness to the wine. Gessamí obtains the balance of its fruity and floral character such that it shifts between delicate softness of unctuous structure that is bright and refreshing, Very Good-Excellent $24.99; Case, $21.50
An Amazing Albarino From famed Rioja producer La Rioja Alta
2022 Lagar d’Cervera Rias Baixas Albarino
The winery was purchased by La Rioja Alta in 1988 and is now state-of-the-art in terms of equipment. The estate's vineyards are in the southern section of the Rias Baixas, where warmer conditions mean early ripening and good levels. It is also a hilly area with poor soils, giving low yields of high-quality grapes. Aroma: white fruit notes -golden delicious apple and ripe pear- as well as stone fruit, particularly apricot, and hints of lemon peel. Mouth: Fresh and vibrant on the palate, with excellent structure, intense and well-balanced. It retains a saline aftertaste and a long, lingering finish. Very Good, $28.99; Case, $24.99
Hidden Gem from Catalunya
2022 Herencia Altes Garnatxa Blanca
Nuria Altés is a young vintner from a family that has grown grapes for generations. Nuria's new project, Herència Altés, is in Terra Alta, a large region in a remote corner of Catalunya that few know. With wine like this, that will change
Aroma: a fresh, clean, and balanced wine with a very expressive nose that awakens aromas of citrus, fruit, and also Mediterranean herbs. Mouth: The palate is very fresh, with vibrant and elegant acidity. Subtle peaches, green apples, and mineral characters make a great change of pace for those who enjoy Chardonnay Very Good, $16.99; Case, $14.50
Red
A Rioja with Bordeaux roots and Burgundian sensibility
2021 Olivier Riviere Rayos Uva Rioja
Olivier grew up in Cognac, near Bordeaux. He studied enology in Montagne St-Emilion, focusing on biodynamic farming, and cut his teeth working in Burgundy for Domaine de Chassorney and Domaine Leroy. Rayos Uva is Olivier's version of a Bourgogne Rouge sourced from fruit grown in sandy, gravelly, and alluvial soils of Rioja Baja. The blend usually includes Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Graciano – percentages change yearly to create a brightly fruity version of Rioja unmarked by oak.
Aroma: Fresh tones of red cherries, red berries, roses, spice cake, licorice, red flowers, crushed rocks, and herbs. Mouth: Laden with young red fruits, black cherry, plum, and a slight fig note. It is slightly earthy beneath but fresh with a medium body, silky tannins, and balanced acidity, making for a fabulous accessible Rioja Very Good Plus $27.99; Case, $23.99
Black Slate Priorat wine label from Catalonia
2019 Black Slate La Vilella Alta Priorat
Black Slate Project applies Burgundian village nomenclature to Priorat's slate soils: nine historic villages, each with its distinct character. For the La Vilella Alta version, Eric Solomon collaborated with Bixente Oçafrain and Philippe Cambie of Bodegas Mas Alta. They blended old and young-vine Garnatxa (Grenache)and Carinena with touches of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
Aroma: Blackberry, black currant, anise, spice, and earthy aromatics emerge from the glass. Mouth: Generous with a round, soft texture with ripe black fruit flavors, laced with licorice, toast, and loamy earth notes. Offers well-integrated tannins and gentle acidity. A floral potpourri and cinnamon emerge on the finish. Very Good Plus $28.99; Case, $24.99
A Whole New Idea of Grenache
2021 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas
Now and then, you come across a wine that makes you rethink your idea of a grape. This old-vine Garnatxa does just that.
Two friends since college, Daniel Landi and Fernando Garci, work in viticulture in the mountainous Sierra de Gredos, a rugged and remote area west of Madrid. Their Garnatxa is Grand Cru quality. It will seduce your palate with prettiness, persistence, and perfume.
Aroma: Ridiculously fragrant, fresh orange zest, redolent of rose petal and black cherry juice, with a hint of brighter strawberry candy. Mouth: It oozes complex and tantalizing flavors of black fruit, red flower petals, cracked black pepper, and wet earth. With a backbone of acidity and fine tannin, this bottle has made the Comando G wines so sought after. A fresh Garnatxa with a lot of character Excellent
$44; Case, $37
Mix any twelve bottles at their case prices
Richard Harmer
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