Federal Wine & Spirits

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This Week's Tasting

Lighter Reds for a Hotter Summer
July 12, 2017

Just because the weather makes you long for Greenland, doesn't mean that you have to give up red wine. Just drink the way you dress, doff the weighty woolies for lighter silks and cottons.


When cabernet and Barolo are too heavy , trade them for pinot and Gamay and don't be afraid to put the bottle in the fridge to cool down, not as cold as beer, but to coin a phrase, cool as a mountain spring.

Schiava is an Alpine grape of many aliases. The 2015 Glassier Schiava puts two on its labels. Schiava on the back, Vernatsch on the front for the German speakers in Alto Adige (Sudtirol) where Stefan and Linda Vaja, the current owners of the centuries-old winery, grow their grapes. Limestone in the soil informs the flavors of this wine, a great example of a red lighter in both flavor and color.

Jessiaume makes their wines in a lighter, more fruit forward style. Their 2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir is bliss for a hot summer day. Deceptively full in the nose, it flows prettily across the palate, all strawberry with a very light rhubarb accent. We also liked their extraordinary 2014 Volnay.

Lighter Beaujolais makes for warm weather delight. We'll try two.

Capreoles, is a small new estate albeit based on a 250 year-old vineyard. The Amourgandise cuvée comes from a small plot in Lantignie, now considered plain Beaujolais but on its way to becoming the 11th cru. This organic wine is dark hued in color and flavor, hearty, deep, and very satisfying. It delighted my guests at my Fourth of July cookout. We drink what we sell.

 Stephane Aviron's Beaujolais are in a more classic style. We liked all his 2015s but chose his Cote de Brouilly for drinking now. It is quintessential Brouilly, precise and defined, with very pretty fruit. elegance at a bargain.

Domaine des Huards is an organic and biodynamic estate in the mid-Loire Valley. Their Cheverny is a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay like all wines from that commune. It is entrancing, rather fuller body but with an intriguing herbal equality. Unfortunately we only have one case but couldn't resist putting it into this tasting.

The Ferrero winery dates back to the late 19th century when Giacomo Ferrero began the family business of growing grapes and hazelnuts in the small village of Mango. The winery was recently revived by great grandson Federico and he brings to this enterprise a great Piemontese passion. The 2013 Federico Ferrero Dolcetto Galea is a classic Dolcetto that goes with just about everything. The wine is light to medium bodied but with plenty of structure and interest.



2015 Glassier Schiava: Light ruby. Perfumed fruity aromas and flavors of strawberry, almonds and violets with light tannins and a touch of white pepper. Just the right touch of bitterness in the finish to bring the palate back to the fruit and a second or third glass. Very Good Plus Plus. 26.99/bottle 24.30/mixed case 22.95/case

2015 Domaine Jessiaume Bourgogne; Aroma: Heady rather deep very full, Mouth: Fleshy fresh clean juicy fresh primary, rhubarb note; Very Good Plus 24.99; Mixed Case, 22.49; Case, 21.24

2016 Domaine de Capreoles Beaujolais Lantignie l'Amourgandise - Organic; Aroma: rather fresh very juicy, nicely herbal rather dense, nutty fresh; Mouth: juicy forward, very fresh dark fruit, clean pretty bright acid, vibrant with deep fruit Very Good Plus 17.99; Mixed Case, 16.19; Case, 15.29

2015 Stephane Aviron Cote de Brouilly; Aroma: nicely dense, very full, reserved, plump; Mouth: clean racy at the same time, rich, very fine precise defining acidity; Very Good Plus 18.99; Mixed Case, 17.09; Case, 16.14

2014 Domaine des Huards Cheverny - Organic; Color: light red black; Aroma: herbal, sour cherry with a light note of compote, sweet; Mouth: pretty fine acid, fullish, juicy, nutty clean fine acidity, herbal, refreshing astringency on the finish; Very Good Plus

21.99; Mixed Case, 19.79; limited

2013 Federico Ferrero Dolcetto Galea: Ruby with violet rim. Ripe fruit aromas, with licorice, nuts and violets. Light to medium body and silky tannins to hold it all together. Very Good Plus 14.99/bottle 13.49/mixed case 12.74/case


7-12 Summer Red Case: Special, two each of the above wines - $215

Instore only 7-12 Summer Red Pack: Special, one each of the above wines - $114


Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: Order@federalwine.com


           - Len Rothenberg


(c) Federal Wine and Spirits Inc. 2017