Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

2015 Domaine Patrick Miolane St. Aubin 1er Cru Perrieres

Affordable Breed in White Burgundy
September 26, 2017

 

2015 Domaine Patrick Miolane St. Aubin 1er Cru Perrieres

 St. Aubin lies just above the famed Le Montrachet, and shares the soils of Chassagne and Puligny… But it is on the "wrong" side of the hill. With less favorable sun exposure its wines were lighter and less rich than those famous towns down slope.  They do share the same breed. With the spate of warmer, riper vintages of the last two decades, they often approach their more famous neighbors in quality, realization of character.
           Aficionados of white Burgundy's breed and minerality have found them to be hidden values in fine Cote d'Or whites. Word has unfortunately gotten out, and St. Aubins have have been sharing - and even exceeding - the price increases of white Burgundies of the last few years.
           I was really happy to taste the current releases from an established vigneron who is new to the United States, but whom we can import directly to keep prices down.
           Patrick Miolane and his daughter Barbara run a generations-old 22 acre family estate, tending their vines sustainably, using no herbicides and a minimum of other treatments. Their winemaking is also non-interventionist to express as much of the terroir as as possible.
           The 2015 vintage had just the sort of warmth in which the wines of St. Aubin shine. I chose the St. Aubin 1er cru Perrieres as the best concentration, depth, and value for the money of the six Miolanes I tasted. It can be drunk now with some airing, and will age for another five years.
                                                                                                    
2015 Patrick Miolane St. Aubin Les Perrieres 1er Cru; Aroma: oaky rayher fkeshy, herbal, very dense very full; Mouth: clean full, softer rich very dense sweet very dense dense lingering, wood finish, long; Very Good - Excellent 40; Mixed Case, 36;
 Special Case, $407.88, 33.99 a bottle

 

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           - Len Rothenberg